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CHEF DEZ ON COOKING – Valleylife June/July 2006
Steak Madagascar for One Good Friend

George and Chef DezI love being a Chef. Food is a universal language that touches the lives of almost everyone. No matter what road of life one travels along, chances are they have an appreciation for a good meal. Last summer I had the pleasure of being introduced to George Canyon, and during his most recent tour in December we found the time to sit and chat about food.

George Canyon is Canada’s latest country music success story. His first single from the album, “I’ll Never Do Better Than You,” hit radio in late August 2004 and flew up the charts to #5 at Canadian Country radio. His album, One Good Friend, followed on September 28th, and has sold more than 70,000 copies in Canada to date with other hit singles such as “My Name”, “Who Would You Be”, and the title track “One Good Friend”. Raised in Pictou County, Nova Scotia, George and his family now reside in Alberta.

As with many people, George was hard-pressed to narrow down what his favorite food is. “There are many things I like” George says “we eat a lot of sushi while we’re on the road” he admits. “I really like spaghetti (and meat sauce) too – we have that at home quite often.”

Although George doesn’t drink alcohol he does like the taste of red wine, while Jen (his wife) likes both port and red wines. George also admitted to loving steak. This I should have guessed on my own - a cowboy living in Cattle Country not liking steak is like a Chilliwack farmer not liking corn. “Have you ever tried Pepper Steak Madagascar?” I inquired. George gave me somewhat of a puzzled look “Madagascar? Hmmm… well I know my kids liked the movie, if that helps” he said jokingly.

Pepper Steak Madagascar is a dish created with a rich wine sauce and soft green Madagascar peppercorns. New York strip loins are the steak of choice for this recipe. The marbling of fat not only makes them flavourful and juicy, but very tender as well. Basically they are seared in a hot pan until they have almost reached the desired doneness. The pan is then traditionally deglazed with port wine, but to recognize George and Jennifer’s enjoyment of the taste of red wine, it will be used instead. With the addition of cream and beef broth, it is reduced to a syrupy consistency for a sauce that is intense with flavour and richness.

Another fact about George is that he is diabetic. This is an additional great reason to eliminate the sweet port from this recipe. Sugar-free blueberry jam is added to compensate for the missing sweet edge and depth of the port wine. If sugar is not a concern, then regular grape jelly will work just fine.

George’s new album “Somebody Wrote Love” is due to be released on June 20th with some great new songs including the title track single, so be sure to pick up a copy. George, I wish you continued success with this new album and I hope you and Jennifer enjoy this recipe. As you write songs, I write recipes, and this one represents “culinary love that I wrote”, and I dedicate it to your passion for life, family, music, and of course food.

Canyon Steak MadagascarCanyon Steak Madagascar

2 top grade New York Strip loins
1 tbsp freshly cracked black peppercorns
Salt
1 tbsp oil
2/3 (two thirds) cup full bodied red wine
2 tbsp sugarless blueberry jam (or regular grape jelly)
1/3 (one third) to ½ (one half) cup whipping cream
1/4 (one quarter) cup concentrated beef stock (undiluted - straight from the can)
2 tbsp green Madagascar peppercorns, strained from brine *(see note below)
1 tbsp butter
Fresh parsley, chopped – for garnish - optional

1. Season steaks with salt and coat with the crushed peppercorns.
2. Heat a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the oil and sear the steaks - approximately 2 minutes per side for rare (depending on thickness of steaks).
3. Remove the steaks from the pan, and cover them to keep warm.
4. Take the pan off the heat and deglaze (loosen the browned bits on the pan) by adding the red wine and scraping with a wooden spoon.
5. Turn down the heat to medium and replace the pan to the burner. Add the blueberry jam and cook until the wine has reduced by half, and the jam has melted into the wine.
6. Stir in the cream and beef stock. Turn the heat to medium-high and reduce until the sauce has almost thickened enough to coat the back of a spoon.
7. Add the green peppercorns.
8. Add the steaks back to the pan just to reheat and coat with the sauce.
9. Plate the steaks with the presentation side (the side with less fat) facing forward.
10. Reduce the sauce further until syrupy. Remove from the heat and stir in the butter. Taste and re-season if necessary.
11. Spoon the sauce over the steaks and down the front of the presentation sides.
12. Garnish with fresh chopped parsley, if desired.

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